As a part of our guide to the best pizza in Kobe City, we are excited to bring you this review of Pizzeria Azzurri in Chuo-ku, Kobe. The short answer is: fantastic pizza, surely one of the best Napoletana pizzas in Japan.
We first heard of Azzurri Pizza in Kobe, from the pizza master at Pizzeria Quarantuno 41 (in Nagoya). He had a book of great pizza restaurants in Japan (maybe a directory?), and he looked up Kobe’s Azzurri to show it to me.
Azzurri Pizza is located in Chuo-ku, Kobe, not far from Sannomiya Station, in between Yamate Kansen and the mountains (to the north). I was there on a Saturday at dinner time, without a reservation. It was crowded. A serious guy that seemed to be running the show told the server to have me wait outside.
I was just one for dinner, but inside was packed and the wait was about 20 minutes. They brought me a menu. I was glad to just sit; it had been a long day, crawling across Kobe. I had a chance to relax and look around.
Outside of Azzurri; you step off the pavers onto old dark bricks, their edges at the entrance rounded from so much use. Bright blue benches. A piece of wood wedged under the wood-frame door, holding it open.
I know we’re all here for the pizza, so let’s get to it.
This place makes a fantastic pizza; a pizza that photographs well, and tastes even better.
It all begins with Azzurri’s extensive pizza menu; several pages of options, as well as a list of special and seasonal pizzas.
The menu also lists three kinds of cheese: mozzarella, a buffalo mozzarella, and a smoked buffalo mozzarella. One of the first times I thought much about buffalo mozzarella was at Sabasu Pizza in Akasaka, Tokyo (if you know it, it makes for a suitable comparison to Azzurri).
For my part, I wanted to try something they call the Pizza Normanna, from the the “Specialita” menu:
Pizza Normanna: Octopus, pepperoncini macinati, homemade ricotta cheese, basil, garlic, oregano, tomato sauce
— From the Pizzeria Azzurri pizza specialty menu
Every part of that sounded good to me. I have been working on a list of seafood pizzas from Japan, and the opportunity to eat an Octopus pizza was irresistible.
After a while I was seated, at a quiet table, next to the door (from which I could look into the kitchen). The smells in the room were garlic and sauce. A family of four next to me ate a meaty Bolognese sauce on pasta that was so tempting it almost made me rethink my order. They also ate a jet black pasta (presumably made from octopus ink?). Everything was comfortable, but high-end and special.
Pricing fits the experience: For a single pizza you’ll pay 2100 JPY, nudging up into 3200 JPY (depending on what you order).
When my server came to my table, I ordered that Pizza Normanna and a beer.
I wanted to try something else off the menu besides pizza, so I also ordered the Fritto di Mare del Giorno. I know “fritto di mare” means “fruit of the sea,” but (because my Japanese is admittedly terrible) exactly what would be served was to be a mystery until it arrived.
I asked some questions, but my understanding was limited. To the best of my knowledge: the “fruit of the sea” at Azzurri varies by day, and what is in season. On my visit my appetizer arrived in an aluminum dish; small fish, battered and fried, with a slice of lemon, and a pile of salt set on a leaf of basil.
It was basically like a Japanese “fish and chips,” minus the potatoes. More fine than that. Very tasty. I was glad to have something to get started, and to give you all another view of the food; which was beautiful, like everything else at Azzurri.
And then, of course: it was show time.
Behold: the Pizza Normanna at Azzurri Pizza in Kobe.
Once I had the pizza in front of me I went back to look at the ingredients; I had some more questions and curiosity to be satisfied.
For example: I looked up “peperoncini macinati.” In America, a pepperoncini is a mild green pepper in vinegar (a classic deli pepper, goes well with a roast beef sandwich). In this case, the “from Italy” use of that term is a chopped red pepper, often in olive oil, with a decidedly hot flavor (like the red chili flakes you’d find at a pizza slice place). In this, case it means the pizza was to be a little spicy.
It certainly was spicy; this pizza was a fireball. The crust, was paper thin; both as it was stretched across the plate, and in the big, broken-black bubble of the crust. Amidst all that firepower, the ricotta cheese comes through like a blanket of creme to cleanse your palette, and put the fire out.
(In my research for this review, I came across another Pizza Normanna that had a creamy cheese as well – in that case the pizzeria was in Slovakia, and the cheese happened to be from Hokkaido, Japan. That pizza had some baked Italian ham, but doesn’t look to have been spicy. It may be that the cheese is the defining element of a Normanna Napoletana pizza.)
The tomatoes on the Normanna pizza at Azzurri were bright, heavy, juicy. There was an occasional burst of basil. With all of this going on, the octopus becomes a source of protein, both otherwise plays only a supporting role to flames, tomatoes, and soft, soothing cheese.
(In my final bites I took a bite of octopus, and one of the tomatoes on a fork – the two alone, together. A fantastic duet. I did it again. The octopus was tender, and needs a less-crowded stage to be noticed.)
This pizza became a fantastic lesson in ricotta cheese. Ricotta – can be overwhelming. But paired with acidy tomatoes, and in this case with all that spice, it was wonderful.
I found one slice that was cut a little wide. When I folded it over, even loaded w/ toppings I could pick it up. With regard to the classic Pizza Czar Pizza Test: Azzurri in Kobe offers very thin-crust pizza, most definitely “knife and fork pizza” (even I used a fork to get started, I never do that). But, with the right slice, part of this pizza could be picked up.
Look at that slice. For their typical slice, there is no way you’re going be able to pick them up.
The shop feels masculine. From the moment the big guy (with the grey beard) in the kitchen kind of barked for me to seat down and wait my turn (outside), I could tell this place has some testosterone. Good deal. I like it.
Inside, the decor has been layered-on; each cm of the walls is covered in posters and framed sports jerseys (Maekawa, #1, apparently a goalie).
“Vissel Kobe.”
Not a huge place, but a busy place. Seats 20+ patrons, tightly packed – and has a staff of maybe seven. On a Saturday night; two young girls serving, and maybe five guys in the kitchen.
To state what should be obvious; I loved it. I was so happy to be there, having an absolutely marvelous pizza experience. As the Pizza Czar of the Japan, that is what I want to see.
I lingered. I took my time. I had two beers, and sank into my seat. Sated and satisfied. My meal of fish, and pizza, an beer at Azzurri was a perfect celebration after a hard day.
And I will add: Pizzeria Azzurri in Kobe is one of my first good “Vera Pizza” experiences.
When I spotted the heavy “Vera Pizza” branding, I took the following note: “AVPN – not a good sign, but I think this going to be great pizza.”
This Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana is an “accreditation” for pizzerias “that respect the tradition of the art of Neapolitan pizza making” (per the standards of the organization). It has been my experience that the presence of the “certification” mostly means you will have a generic, mediocre experience; the very best pizzas I’ve had in Japan almost never have this designation (while many of the most ordinary boast of their “Vera Pizza” status).
AVPN is a good example of why the phrase “you shall know them by their fruit” cuts both ways; I have come to associate AVPN pizzerias with “averageness” (or worse). Often a strong appeal to accreditation is a red flag.
However, Azzurri is an example of the rare pizza restaurant in Japan that drags around the AVPN albatross and manages to rise above it, and deliver something extraordinary. When they talk about the best pizzas in Japan, Azzurri has earned a place in that conversation along with the Pizza Bar on 38th and Marumo Pizza.
I loved my Pizza Normanna. I would eagerly head back to Kobe’s Azzurri Pizzeria again. I would love the opportunity to sample some other pizza from their menu, and I’m certain it would be good stuff.
Hot. Hot pizza desu. The sauce, sweet relief. The crust, a burnt sweet melody. I loved the crust. I used the last bite to sop up some sauce and oil scarpetta style.
Perhaps a little expensive. I think an app, two beers, and a pizza was about 8000 JPY. But… in my experience, worth the price in every way.
Fantastic.
Bravo. Highly recommended.
Pizza Restaurants in Kobe
— Excellent Napolitana pizza at Elefante Pizza in Chuo-ku, Kobe
— Get more NY-style pizza slices at Jesus Pizza in Chuo-ku, Kobe
— Chicago pizza at BrewPub Starboard Pizza in Chuo-ku, Kobe
— Simple, neighborhood Napoletana pizza at Pizzeria Allocco in Kunikadori in Chuo-ku, Kobe
— Amazing NYC-style pizza slices at 2 Bro’s Pizza at Sannomiya Station in Chuo-ku, Kobe